How To Fit Your Underwire …and other underwire mysteries

Hi All!

I’m starting off this month with a good overview of underwires and how to find your size- Let’s jump right in!


To start off- let’s talk a little bit about underwires and why we use them.

Underwires are designed to help distribute the weight of your breast into the band of your bra, giving you more support and lift. They also help to give more shaping to your breasts and keep them out of your armpits.

A properly fitted underwire should help with support, lift, and shaping – but it should not pinch, poke, dig in or generally be uncomfortable.


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June Is Underwire Month!

Hi All!

It’s June- and this month I want to talk all about Underwires!


I did a post quite a while ago now, All About Underwires, and it’s one of my most popular posts. So clearly you guys have some questions about underwires!


I thought this June would be the perfect time to re-hash that post and add to it.


So I wanted to throw this out to you at the beginning of the month-


What do you want to know about underwires?

I’m planning do write about sizing underwires, and different styles of underwires, but I’d love to hear some of your questions and see if I can work them into my posts this month- It’s going to be a great month!

Talk to me in the comments!!!




Hi All!

Underwires. It’s a big topic, and I hope that I can shed some light on it, to take some of the mystery out of bra-making!

Since this is my first theory post in Bra-A-Week 2016. I want to start off this post by saying: there is no universal right or wrong, everything is a matter of preference. Bra-making and bra fitting is a very intimate and personal thing, and everybody has a different way that they like to make and fit their bras, and I’m happy to help by sharing my opinions and things that I’ve learned in my bra-making experiences and I hope that you’ll leave your opinions and experiences in the comments too 🙂

The Basics:

Underwires are meant to help support and distribute the weight of breast tissue into the band of the bra. They also help to give more shape and lift. Underwires should not be uncomfortable or painful.

Underwires are generally made of steel, and can come in different gauges (thicknesses) that have different strengths and levels of flexibility. The thinner the wire, or the more flexible the wire, the less support it will give, and the more it will bend from its original shape. The thicker/stronger a wire is, the more support you will get and the more it will hold its shape. I prefer to use a wire that is thicker and stronger for more support, shape and lift. I use a 24 gauge wire, and that is the gauge of wire that I offer in my shop.

Now the more challenging part: fitting an underwire.

Underwires come in different sizes, lengths and shapes.

The size and the length of underwires are pretty straight forward.

SIZE: Size of an underwire is about the overall diameter of the breast and is often calculated by your band and your cup size, as your cup or your band size increase, so will the diameter or your wire. In the industry they have pre-determined the diameter of a breast for each size of bra (e.g.. 34C is a 36 size wire). As we know- this is a ‘standard measure’ and just because you have a certain cup and band size, doesn’t mean that you will be that wire size- and we have the luxury in making our own bras to find the wire that fits our own unique body, instead of going by a standard! 🙂

LENGTH: Length refers to the length of certain type of wire (surprise! lol). Generally speaking, length will refer to the length of the wire at the centre front, because this length will indicate the height of your neckline, wether you are making a plunge bra, or you want something more full coverage at the centre front.


Now the shape of the underwire can take a little bit more thought and examination. This is something that I haven’t seen talked about very much online, and that I’ve had to figure out through many fittings and talking to people who struggle with underwires. So what I’ve generally found is that breasts come in different shapes. And when I say different shapes I’m talking about the shape of the crease between breast and body where your underwire should be sitting.

I’ve found that people can be more ‘tall ovals’, ’round’ or ‘wide ovals’- somewhere on this continuum of shapes.

(please forgive my mediocre drawing skills, I think the tall oval and the round could have been little more distinct- but alas, it’s good enough to get the point across)
People can fall in a lot of places on this line, but I find that the people who have the most challenges fitting underwires are the people who fall more to either side.
People who have a tall oval shape, are generally more likely to have larger cups on a smaller frame (because that’s the only way they fit!), generally there is not much space between breasts and they need a wire that is deeper with long arms and goes up straight at the centre front. So if they have a wire that is too shallow and splayed, they will have to be spaced too far apart, they won’t get the support that they need, and it won’t sit flat against the chest in the centre front.
On the other hand, people who are more of a wide oval shape are more likely to have smaller or shallower cups, spaced further apart. They might find that the regular underwires that fit width-wise across their breast have a gap at the bottom where it extends below where their breast tissue ends, and they find that the arms of the wire are too long at the centre front and under the arm. They need a wire that is more shallow, and splayed to fit comfortably.
This is the main goal that I’ve been working on with my wire selection in The Emerald Studio: finding different shapes of wires to suit all the different shapes of women 🙂  So I will show you, using the wires I have available, which shapes I find help for different shapes of breasts. *these are all wires that I have available, but these shapes, styles and fitting elements are things that you can look for in any underwire*


Here are sample wires all in the same size (38) to show the difference between them, and how they are meant for different shapes.

The Bliss is meant to help women who are the “Tall Oval”  (you can see how the tall oval would rest well in this wire)

The Round is meant to help women who are a more round shape (you can see how a round breast would sit well in this wire)

The France is meant to help women who are a more “Wide Oval”  (you can see the wide oval sitting well in this wire)

The Plunge is generally for the tall oval or round shape that is looking for a plunging neckline.

You can see from the shape of these wires, how the breast is meant to sit in them, and how some would be better shapes for different shapes of breasts

Here is a closer breakdown of each type of wire:

The Bliss

You can see that The Bliss wire has ‘deeper shape, and is slightly more narrow in width, and at the centre front it is very vertical, which means that you can bring the two wires very close together in the centre front for women who find that they have no space between their breasts. This wire also has a little bit of the roundness reduced at the outer bottom edge, to help push the breast tissue out from under the arm and towards the front.

The Round

The round wire is a very standard shape of wire. It is, as the name would say, very round, with a more gentle amount of splay at the centre front. This is a really good wire for people who have a very round crease where their breast meets their body, and generally these ladies will have fairly proportionate breast-to-frame ratio.

The France

This wire was inspired by a good friend, who had a hard time finding any wires that would fit her shape. This is a very shallow wire for women who find they are more of a ‘wide oval’ shape, you can see it has a gentle curve at the bottom, and the arms are very splayed. The arms of the wire are also quite short under the arm and at the centre front to suit this shape.

Now the France wire can be worn by women who are the wide oval shape, and they will fit in a similar way to a round wire or a bliss wire on the women who suit those shapes. But the France wire can also be worn by women who have other shapes, who want a wire that is much lower under the arm, for different styles of bras, or more relaxed fitting bras (that’s how I like to wear them, even though I’m not a wide-oval). They are a more versatile and relaxed wire that can suit different shapes and sizes.

The Plunge

The Plunge is a good example of a different length of wire. You can see from the plunge that the underarm edge is similar to the Bliss and the Round wires, but it is much lower in the centre front, to suit the plunging neckline styles.

Because of the height of the underarm edge, this style might not be the best for a ‘wide oval’ shape, since the underarm would sit too vertically and high, but it is a great option for plunging necklines for tall ovals and round shapes.


Now that you know a little bit more about underwires, I’ll use myself as a case study, since I’ve worn all of these underwires, and know quite a bit about my shape.

I find that my shape is somewhere between Round and Tall Oval. I can comfortably wear both the Round and the Bliss wires, but I find that the Bliss wires are more flattering for me: as you can see from this photo from Bra Theory September. (Bliss wire on the right of the photo is a slightly nicer shape for me)

I’ve also shown the France wire in my latest bra. Now I’m not the standard ‘wide oval’ shape for this wire. But you don’t HAVE to be that shape to wear the wire, I wear this wire as a much more relaxed fit, low under the arm, lower in the front. You can see that it’s not giving me the same shape as the Bliss or Round wire and offers less support for my shape, but it is pretty for more dainty lingerie looks 🙂  and would also be comfortable for more lounge-bra styles.

And finally the Plunge, you can see that I’m getting the same amount of support and shape under the arm as I would wearing a Bliss wire, with the higher under arm- which is helping to push all my breast tissue forward (yay for cleavage!) and then the wire is nice and low in the front for that plunging neckline 🙂


Underwires take a little bit of trial and error before you find the perfect ones for you. And if you don’t like underwire at all, you don’t even have to wear them, there are nice no-wire options too! It’s all about trying new things and finding out what works best for you.

What are your underwire preferences? Did you learn anything new from this post?

Let me know!

Happy Sewing

xo erin


What are: France Underwires

Hi All!

I wanted to share with you my new favourite lingerie supply. The France Wire 🙂

This is a new style of underwire that has a different shape and fit from the other underwire that I carry, and it’s all part of my goal to make bra-making more accessible for everyone 🙂 because we all have different needs.


This underwire actually came about from a friend of mine, who was complaining that she doesn’t fit regular underwires, the round or the bliss. She said that they were too deep, and she needed something more shallow and splayed to fit her comfortably.

So after a little sourcing, fit testing and experimentation, I found these wires 🙂


You can see right away that these are quite a different shape from my other wires, they are much more splayed and shallow. I would say that these are almost the opposite of the Bliss wire (which are deep and narrow).
So along with that idea, I think that these wires are generally ideal for smaller cup sizes, especially people who find that they have a more average sized rib cage and band, but smaller cups, where you find that the underwire always feels too small and narrow.
That’s not to say that it is limited to only these body types though. I find that this wire has a lot of potential for many shapes. And is great for lighter lingerie, and bra styles that don’t require as much coverage under the arm, because these wires are shorter at the underarm edge.
Here is an example of a bra with a France wire:
As you can see, this bra is lower on the underarm edge, with a medium height in the front, giving a really nice and relaxed fit, which I find is really comfortable, and pretty sexy too 🙂


They are currently available in sizes 30-46
So far I find that sizing is quite similar for these wires to the other style of wires. For example I comfortably wear a 38 in both the France and the Bliss wires.
What style of underwire do you like?
Do you think he France wire would work for you?
xo erin

BLISS Underwires!!

Hi All!!

I wanted to do a post about underwires today! I know that it can be confusing with all the different types of wires, but I’ve stumbled upon a wire that I really love- and I call it the Bliss wire 🙂

I talked about this wire back in September in this bra theory post and showed the difference between the Bliss wire and my usual wires, that I like to call Round wires. There are a few features that make this wire an excellent choice for a lot of women!

This is the Bliss Wire:

You can see that the bliss wire is a deeper, narrower wire. This shape gives a great fit! Especially if you have: larger cup sizes, very little space between your cups (narrow bridge), close set-breasts or a narrow ribcage, or if you’re looking to bring your breasts closer together and out from your underarm!

And this is the bliss wire compared to a round wire (below),


Bliss Wire                                                        Round Wire

And here you can see the difference in a bra with the bliss wire (left) and the round wire (right). Personally I prefer the Bliss wire 🙂

I love having more options!! And more wires for all different shapes and styles 🙂 One step closer to the perfect fit for every body! Here you can see just how different the splay is between the Bliss wire and the Round Wire – whatever works the best for you body and comfort!

* It should be noted that these wires are not ideal for smaller or shallower fit cups.


I am so happy to say that I have a full stock of these wires in
Wires for all!! (I know that some of you have been waiting very patiently!)


I also have my Round and Plunge wires available in the shop too!
What wire do you like best? Are you going to give the Bliss wire a try?
xo erin
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