Coverstitch 101 – Learning the Coverstitch Machine!!
This was the BabyLock coversitch that I used today- and our first step was threading the machine, which would be different for every machine I imagine, so I won’t really go into detail about that.
This was a stitch using the left and middle needle, so they are closer together- and this is what your underneath looks like:
And lastly here is your three needle/thread option, which is purely decorative and not really commonly used- but it is kind of cute with the three colours!
And the back is fairly similar, just a little wider than the last
And you can see that this stitch I did as a practice hem- and I got it perfectly so that the underneath threads catch the edge of the hem and enclose it! How perfect is that!
And how you might ask did I know exactly where my hemline was? Well this genius tip from Beverly:
Put a light- in this case we used a snake-light from Ikea- and shine it right underneath your fabric- and you can see where your fold is for your hem!
So when you go to sew it is super clear where that edge is underneath! Alternatively there are hemming attachments that you can buy and screw to the front of your machine that fold your fabric- but I think this is just as easy and will work for any width of hem.
Now- the next thing that I should tell you about, which I mentioned above- is how to lock your stitches- so when you get to the end of your fabric- you bring your needles up to their highest position and raise the foot releasing the tension. Then, using a little tool (something long and thin like a thin screwdriver)- pull your needle threads towards you from under the machine, pulling them out, then cut them, now give your fabric a sharp tug backwards out of your machine. In this process your top needle threads will get pulled through to the back, locking them- and locking your stitch! Then you can cut your bottom thread and you have your finished seam! How cool is that.
Next we moved on to all the binding! Which is Beverly’s favourite- you can see her eyes light up when she talks about applying binding to the edges of panties and swimwear- and how easy her coverstich makes it!
She explained the different types of binding edges:
So as you can see the first one (double fold) is your regular binding, what you would use with a woven fabric that would fray. The second one (single fold) has the fold on the top edge, but only one layer of fabric on the bottom, which is great for knits because they don’t fray, and it reduces bulk.
So this is what a binding tool looks like for a cover hem! Really intimidating I know, but it is actually really simple! It is like a regular binding maker- but on its side, and it’s designed to feed your binding right into your machine- so you screw it on so that where there binding comes out is directly in front of your needles.
And this is what that looks like with your binding strip in there!- This one is a double binding- so it has a fold on both the bottom and the top as you can see.
Then the best part about this is that you can stick your piece of fabric in the middle of your binding like so- and it sews the binding onto the edge in one step!
Voila! How cool is that!
And just for a little more info- if you use a stretch fabric for binding, and you give a little tension on your binding as it feeds into your machine you can get this great gather! – wouldn’t that be pretty on a neckline!