Another week, another bra, and this week more bra theory! More specifically power-bar and push-up theory!
Now I have to say that the bra was a nightmare to photograph, and I feel like the photos don’t really do justice to what it looks like in real life.
But I’ll start off with a little description. This is a short-wired low cut bra. I made this bra using bra-tulle, which is a softer tulle with NO stretch, and I used two layers opposing the directions of stretch to make all the pieces completely no-stretch.
Now – the difference between the cups- on the right side (right side of the photo) I have a cup that is a three-piece, cup with a diagonal seam running through the apex and a split in the lower cup. On the left side I have that same seaming, but instead with a power-bar running from the strap and wrapping under the apex.
Power-bars work to push the breast tissue up and out.
And you can see on the left side with the power-bar- that I had to pinch out a HUGE pinch from the cup, because so much of my breast tissue was pushed out of the bra! and up!
Now how to photograph that. lol
It might be hard to tell but there is significantly more tissue and mounding up on my chest wall on the breast on the left (the further one away) than the one closer. The breast on the right is more contained in the cup and less mounded higher on the chest wall.
You can see from this photo of the power-bar breast, that there is a lot of tissue that is pushed UP and out of the cup! And that the power-bar is really pushing me in and up!
And in this angled shot you can see just how much more tissue there is mounding out of the top of the cup on the power-bar side rather than this side without a power-bar!
Now I’m not sure whether this make the breast appear larger, or smaller. I think looking at if you’re looking at the comparison in the bra- the side without the power-bar looks bigger because there is more breast tissue in the cup. However, in person and under a t-shirt or tank top, the other side actually looks bigger because you can see more clearly all the tissue that is pushed higher on the chest wall.
Also consider in this photo that I have the same tan lines on both sides, but the power bar has pushed that inch of un-tanned breast up higher and out the bra on the left side! crazy!
So what do you think? Have you ever used power-bars for lift? do you notice the difference? Let me know what you think!
Now on to your beautiful makes!
First we have this cozy bra from Karin of Mrs.Weaver’s Finest!
This is Karin’s ‘Wild Rose’ bra, and wow isn’t this just the epitome of comfort chic? It’s definitely one of those bras that just calls out to be worn! Made with all of my favourite things too! The cut& sew, the fold over elastic, and lovely soft cover fabrics!
Karin also made these beautiful ivory lace panties to go with it, along with a matching cami! You’re lucky that I wouldn’t fit into this Karin- that’s all I can say!
Although someone might be lucky enough to have one of these beautiful bras for themselves!! Karin is very generously donating one of her bras to a silent auction for Breast Cancer Support!! What an inspiration for all bra-makers 🙂
Don’t forget to check out Karin’s post about her beautiful creation over on her blog!
Next we have a strappy black number from David of Bonnet Bleu !
David made this bra using strap elastics and foam cups!
The straps that connect between the bridge at the front of the bra, continue to the back band and are placed in the normal strap placement at the back of the bra, where the straps front the top of the cups wrap around the neck line a halter.
Very interesting style lines! And this doesn’t affect the style lines of the straps in the back! Very chic in black!
And last but not least we have this pretty bra from Christie!
Christie made this bra for her sister using foam cups covered in a very thin stretch pink fabric, she used an embroidered tulle lace for the front frame and pink powernet for the back band! And look at that cute detail on the straps!
Christie based her inspiration off of this RTW bra- super cute. Unfortunately the fit wasn’t perfect for her sister- but definitely worth trying again!
Thank you so much for your lovely contributions this week!
How is everyone feeling about the challenge so far this fall? Are there any specific topics that you can think of for more bra-theory? – I’ve already had a suggestion for theory on changing cup seaming and modifying patterns (thanks Sofia!) any other suggestions?
Don’t forget to check out the Pinterest board
, and the Flickr Group
if you enjoy those platforms! To grab a challenge button
and to send your bra for next week to firstname.lastname@example.org by Friday for the next Sunday post
Hope you’ve all had a lovely weekend!
Today I have a bra for Bra-A-Week! I wanted to experiment with some new fabrics, instead of always using either duoplex or cut&sew foam.
I found this amazing stable knit (it has no spandex or stretch, only mechanical give), but it’s MUCH lighter than duoplex and is less rigid with more give. It’s also nice and soft with a bit of a waffle design.
And of course it’s bright red! which I love- and a little trick I learned from a friend at Bra-maker’s, red is the perfect colour to wear under white- it doesn’t show up! I’ve been wearing this ALL week (it’s the most comfortable bra I’ve ever owned) and I wore it under white blouses- and no showing at all!
(Sorry I didn’t find time to get a better than phone selfie pic!) But even from this you can see the fit is perfect!! There were a couple things that I did differently for this bra- firstly I really rounded this bra out, taking about 1/4″ off the apex and spreading it out through the rest of he cross cup, and I split the lower cup for even more shaping and rounding. I think the horizontal seam also helps with rounding the shape. I love this shape- it’s like my natural shape perfected!
All cut out and then poof! (after a few hours work lol)
I think that the shape and fit is also due to the fabric. For me, I realize duoplex is just not the best option, it’s too rigid. And I know that sounds crazy because you want your bra to have lots of shaping and support. But for me, while I am still young, pre-children and breastfeeding, and am self-supporting- duoplex is very difficult to work with. It’s partly because my breast tissue is not very mouldable, and with duoplex you have to get the shape PERFECT, and quite tight to lay smooth with no wrinkles- my breasts will not just fill whatever shape you put them in. So for me and my tissue density, it is better to have a fabric that will give and mould around me.
I still don’t think that something with actual spandex stretch would be the best option for anyone- but something like this that is lighter and has more mechanical give is better for me. I also like the weight and give of 15 denier for lacy bras!
With this fabric this bra just seemed to whip up so quick! I even used it for the strap lined with a strip of twill tape. The other thing I did to make this bra more sleek is doubling the upper cup, so I could have a seam at the neckline and finish the top edge straight, and I also used 3/8″ elastic for the top and bottom band, with no picots, which gave it a really clean finish!
And of course the bow! <3 <3
So to recap the features of this bra are : full band, thin band, horizontal seam, split lower cup, double upper cup with a straight top, fabric front strap and full coverage with extra long wires! (that’s quite a list!)
If you want to see more lovely bras right now you can hop over to Michelle’s Creations
, where she is hosting the Bra-A-Week Challenge!! (thanks lovely! <3)
Have you had any bra-revelations? what fabric do you like for your bras?
If you didn’t already know the Sewcialists blog is having a Lingerie Sewing Month!! YAY!
And I was thrilled when they asked me if I would contribute with a guest post!
So I thought I would do a useful post that I know a lot of you guys have been asking for! A tutorial on Cut & Sew Foam and Fold Over Elastic– my two bra-making favourites- as I’m sure you all know!
So this tutorial covers the materials I like to use, and more specifically how I like to sew with them! It gets into the nitty-gritty of stitch lengths and widths and lots of other detail- it went on for a long post! But I felt like I could talk endlessly!
Make sure you head on over to check it out– and all the other wonderful lingerie posts this month!!
What tutorial would you like to see from me next? They’re a lot of fun to make!