Hi All!
Today I have a bra for Bra-A-Week! I wanted to experiment with some new fabrics, instead of always using either duoplex or cut&sew foam.
I found this amazing stable knit (it has no spandex or stretch, only mechanical give), but it’s MUCH lighter than duoplex and is less rigid with more give. It’s also nice and soft with a bit of a waffle design.
And of course it’s bright red! which I love- and a little trick I learned from a friend at Bra-maker’s, red is the perfect colour to wear under white- it doesn’t show up! I’ve been wearing this ALL week (it’s the most comfortable bra I’ve ever owned) and I wore it under white blouses- and no showing at all!
(Sorry I didn’t find time to get a better than phone selfie pic!) But even from this you can see the fit is perfect!! There were a couple things that I did differently for this bra- firstly I really rounded this bra out, taking about 1/4″ off the apex and spreading it out through the rest of he cross cup, and I split the lower cup for even more shaping and rounding. I think the horizontal seam also helps with rounding the shape. I love this shape- it’s like my natural shape perfected!
All cut out and then poof! (after a few hours work lol)
I think that the shape and fit is also due to the fabric. For me, I realize duoplex is just not the best option, it’s too rigid. And I know that sounds crazy because you want your bra to have lots of shaping and support. But for me, while I am still young, pre-children and breastfeeding, and am self-supporting- duoplex is very difficult to work with. It’s partly because my breast tissue is not very mouldable, and with duoplex you have to get the shape PERFECT, and quite tight to lay smooth with no wrinkles- my breasts will not just fill whatever shape you put them in. So for me and my tissue density, it is better to have a fabric that will give and mould around me.
I still don’t think that something with actual spandex stretch would be the best option for anyone- but something like this that is lighter and has more mechanical give is better for me. I also like the weight and give of 15 denier for lacy bras!
With this fabric this bra just seemed to whip up so quick! I even used it for the strap lined with a strip of twill tape. The other thing I did to make this bra more sleek is doubling the upper cup, so I could have a seam at the neckline and finish the top edge straight, and I also used 3/8″ elastic for the top and bottom band, with no picots, which gave it a really clean finish!
And of course the bow! <3 <3
So to recap the features of this bra are : full band, thin band, horizontal seam, split lower cup, double upper cup with a straight top, fabric front strap and full coverage with extra long wires! (that’s quite a list!)
If you want to see more lovely bras  right now you can hop over to
Michelle’s Creations, where she is hosting the Bra-A-Week Challenge!! (thanks lovely! <3)
Have you had any bra-revelations? what fabric do you like for your bras?
Happy sewing!
xo erin
I didn't know that about wearing red under white, really?? It doesn't seem logical, but I'll check it out!
Your new bra looks perfect, flawless, wow!
Thanks Ann! This is actually my favourite bra I've ever made, the shape, the comfort- it all came together on this one! Thanks 🙂
Interesting comments about fabric choice…maybe tissue density is a real consideration? But I also used duo plex for only ONE bra before I quit–and I'm very small busted with soft tissue. The stuff was just Too rigid, and was totally unforgiving of my tall roots and long tail of spence. I now use cotton/lycra and poly lycra all the time without issues, maybe, again, because I have a tiny chest, and I'm looking for a flatter profile (on my bony torso, if I achieve projection it just looks like I'm smuggling oranges!).
Thanks!! I think the best fabrics really are depended on so many factors including size and weight of the breast, support and tissue density. It's interesting to hear that you have great success with lycra- that's great! The only thing I find about lycra is that it also doesn't often give much nipple coverage. But again best fabric choice really do come down to so many factors – and it sounds like you have a very willowy kiera knightly shape- so I totally get the smuggling oranges! You'd probably have great success with bralette patterns too 🙂
My fabric bra fabric is not a typical choice at all….Liberty cotton lawn. Just so comfortable to wear in really hot climates. https://sewblooms.blogspot.com.au/2014/06/my-favourite-use-for-liberty-fabric.html
You are just so good at bra-making now…I love seeing all of your creations.
Thanks Katherine! I've always wanted to try a cotton bra- it does sound so nice and breathable for the summer! I'm always worried about the fraying with the small seams- but I'll have to try one out sometime!!
Thanks so much for the compliment 🙂 🙂 I've definitely gone through my share of practice bras to get to this point! xx
Finding the right bra materials can be so tricky. Like you, I have good experience with cut-and-sew foam. Finding thinner materials that work for me is difficult though. I've tried a type of net which didn't stretch at all but that gives the same kind of problems you are describing for duoplex. Although I can find a lot of lingerie making supplies fairly easily, the stable fabrics you would want to use for bra cups are almost impossible to find. I keep planning to try again, maybe using a woven fabric on the bias (like a lingerie making book I own suggests) but I keep putting it off and returning to the foam, which I know will work.
Thanks Lauriana!! I know what you mean- it's so hard to invest the time experimenting when you know that you have a go-to like foam! Bra-fabrics are really tricky- and I find that you almost have to look in unusual places and just touch and feel ever bolt in a store! I'm looking into different sources right now for some fabrics like this red one though, and hoping to have them for sale on Etsy in bra kits this fall 🙂
Erin, please update us on FB with a link when you get the kits up on Etsy. That's just great news.
Thanks! I will make sure to let everyone know!! 🙂 🙂 🙂
Erin, I love your bra! It's gorgeous! The fit looks incredible and it looks so very comfortable. Your comments make perfect sense to me – having a few years on you, having gone through pregnancies, and having nursed babies – if Duoplex is great material for me for support and shape, it really wouldn't be great for you. Love love love that bow!
Michelle
Thanks Michelle! 🙂 🙂 Bra-making and fabric choice are really complex and there are so many things to consider!
I just love your red bra. I had no clue about red being invisible under white! I will definitely need to test that out! Also, because of this bra, I immediately ordered a bunch of gingham bows off ebay. <3 <3
<3<3<3 Thanks Andie! can't wait to see your next creation decked out in gingham bows 🙂
Beautiful job and a perfect fit; just lovely.
Thanks 🙂 🙂
A beautiful bra! Red is my favourite colour and this is absolutely divine! I read about red not showing through white, but didn't believe it – no I'll have to make a red bra to test it. I use mostly lycra, because that's what is available at the only bra supplier in SA, but that one I made from the recycled t-shirt dress is so comfortable. I lined it with soft cotton-lycra and it helps with the nipple issue. By the way, I'm 40DD and the lycra works well. I want to try cut and sew foam, but I'm not sure if I can use my usual pattern.
Thanks Ilna!! definitely try the red!! 🙂 It's good to know that you like lycra- really it comes down to preference. Foam can be used with almost any pattern so I would definitely give it a go 🙂 Happy bra making!
Where did you find this lovely fabric?
Isn't it gorgeous! this comes from one of my suppliers- I'll be selling bra kits with it soon 🙂
That is so awesome to hear that you'll putting this one up as kit! I'll be buying one as soon as you get those babies up! It's soooo hard to source good bra-making materials all in place.
Thanks Cris! That's great to hear. I know how hard it is to source all the materials out! That's why I wanted to get into selling kits! Glad to hear that there's a need 🙂 🙂
Yay! I've been loving your creations! <3 is this is Marlborough? I'm small chested so I'm wondering how this would work for me.
Thanks! This isn't the marlborough – this is one I drafted myself! I think it would work well for a smaller chest, depending on your bust depth. Sometimes on smaller chest long wires are just WAY too deep and it's better to have a short wire. 🙂 The marlborough is generally a good pattern for smaller busts too. I'm considering making a small bust friendly pattern soon too 🙂
Hi
Love your bra of the week. I really like the idea of splitting the lower cup. I use cut and sew foam and find the lower cup to be a bit flat, with my pattern anyway.
How do you split and redraw the lower cup? Or do you know where I can find that information?
Can't wait to see more bra from you.
Thanks! I started to write out a detailed explanation of how to split the lower cup and I realized it would be way easier to understand if I did a post with pictures. So I'll start working on a post about that! In the meantime Cloth Habit did a great post on it too- and who to change your cup to have a vertical seam here: https://www.clothhabit.com/bra-making-sew-along-vertical-seam-variation/
🙂 🙂 Hope that helps – and I'll do a post on it soon!
Waoo, that is very good of you. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
Erin, this a simple yet beautiful bra. The bow is that one piece that makes the difference!
Thanks Ana! 🙂 🙂
You're bra is awesome 🙂 but what has changed my life is wearing a red bra under white. I tried it today and I'm converted. I think you just changed my life!
YAY!! Isn't it a total game changer?!
Wait what? Red under white doesn't show??? Consider my mind blown!
I know!! it's amazing!!