Today I have a post about a really simple hack to the Jordy Bralette to maximize a beautiful lace. As gorgeous as the standard Lace Overlay version of the pattern is, if you have a lace that has a wider pattern, or you just want to make the most of, then this all-lace with a lace outer edge to the Jordy is the perfect solution. You can buy the Jordy Bralette pattern here.
This is an incredibly simple hack to the Jordy pattern. There are two main changes that you need to make for this version. One is changing the outside edge of the pattern to accommodate the lace edge, and the second is using a picot elastic to finish the inside edge.
To make this hack:
Modifying the Pattern Pieces
To modify the pattern you want to straighten the outside edges of the inner and outer cups so you can have those edge finished in lace. Use the fabric pattern pieces without elastic allowances, and, with a ruler, connect the top point of the cup to the bottom edge (inside the seam allowances). Then cut off the curve, leaving a straight edge.
Cutting Out & Assembling the Cups
Cut the cups out of lace, and out of bra tulle to line the lace. *when cutting the lace, think about the placement. At the top of the cup, the seam should end at the edge of the lace (usually the low point in a scallop) just like shown in the instructions for the lace overlay version*
Sew the cups together as shown in the instructions.
Applying the Elastic
Place the picot elastic (with picots facing in towards the center seam) along the edge of the inner cup just inside the lace edge covering the edge of the bra tulle lining. Stitch down flat with a zig-zag stitch through the center of the elastic.
Repeat this along the edge of the outer cup overlapping the elastics at the top, and backstitching to secure. Leave a tail of elastic at the top of the cup to attach the ring.
Attach the ring to the tail of elastic, trimming away the excess.
Finish the bralette as usual with the Instruction Booklet.
Voila! And now you have a beautiful all-lace Jordy
Sister sizing is a really useful tool in bra-making. It’s the principle that some bra sizes share cup sizes, but have different band sizes, which basically means that you can create a new bra size, just by changing the length of your band. It’s a bit complicated to explain all in words so here is a bra chart:
This is the underwire sizing guide for full size range of the Black Beauty Bra. You can see that size 40B, 38C, 36D, 34DD, 32E, 30F & 28FF all use a size 40 underwire. They are all sister sizes- sizes that have the same cup, but different band lengths. That means that you can take any one of these sizes, and create one of its sister sizes by modifying the band length of the pattern.
I find that it’s easiest to think of sister sizes as sizes that all share an underwire size. So you can see from this chart that a size 34B, and a size 30 D are sister sizes, and a size 38DD and a 34F are sister sizes… etc
This also means that you can make sizes that are completely outside the range of the pattern, like shown in this chart:
You can see from this that if you had a size 40D pattern, you could make it into a size 42C pattern. Or if you had a 30G, you could modify it to be a 28GG. It really expands your size range.
It’s also really great if you fall between the two size ranges of my pattern. Say you measure to a 34DD, make up the pattern and realize that you want one cup size bigger – 34E, but that’s not available in your pattern! No worries, you can take the size 36DD, decrease the band size by one size and voila – 34E!
Then comes the question of how to make this alteration- how much do you remove or add from the back band for each bra size difference? Well I wanted to make that very simple for you, so I made a print out!
This print out is designed to work with my Black Beauty Bra pattern, and may not work for all bra patterns.
If you are decreasing your band size, you will take your back band piece, cut it in half (mark half by fold in your pattern piece in two) and mark a horizontal line to ensure your pattern pieces stay aligned. I call the two half ‘Center Back Band’ and ‘Outer Back Band’
Using the print-out, place your center back and along the indicated line, making sure that you line up your horizontal line too.
Then place your Outer Back band along one of the Band Size lines, overlapping your center back band, and keeping your pattern pieces aligned with the horizontal line. In this diagram I show decreasing by 2 band sizes (for example a 32 to a 28), but you should use whichever line works for your modification. Then you re-draw the top and bottom lines, keeping the side seam and hook and eye edge unchanged. Voila! Your new piece, and your new sister size!
To Increase Your Band Size
This alteration is very similar to the previous. You start by cutting your back band into two pieces and marking a horizontal line.
Then, using the print-out for increasing back band size, place your Center Back Band piece on the indicated line (aligning the horizontal lines) and place your Outer Back Band piece on the Band Line that suits the number of band size you wish to increase. In this example I show 2 sizes. Then you re-draw the top and bottom line of the pieces, keeping the side seam and hook and eye edge in-tact.
It’s really as simple as that!
I know that sister sizes really blew my mind when I first learned out them, and really opened up the possibilities of pattern sizing!
I’d love to know if you use my print-outs and if you find this tutorial helpful : )
I’m back at it again with the vlogs! And this time it’s all about two of my favourite sheer fabrics for bra making: Bra Tulle & Sheer Cup Lining (aka Marquisette Mesh).
As I’m sure you guys know by now- these are some of my most loved and most-used fabrics, and they are two fabrics that I get a lot of questions about- so I thought it was about time that I went over them in a video!
And if you’re not much of a video person, than you can check out this post I did a while ago covering a lot of the same information 🙂
Of course, I offer both of these top quality lovely fabrics in my shop! I have Bra Tulle (available in: white, warm white, blush, grey, midnight blue & black) and Sheer Cup Lining/Marquisette Mesh (available in: White, Latte & Black)
Do you like to use Bra Tulle or Sheer Cup Lining in your bras?
This Sunday it’s all about swimwear- and all of the essential supplies for making a top quality suit- because I know when you’re first getting into making your own swimwear- it can be a little confusing to know what supplies you should get!
I made a video all about this over on my YouTube channel, if you want to see all the supplies in action 🙂
To start off- I want to say, just like with any bra pattern modification, there are definitely limits to this- and depending on how large of a change you’re trying to make with you pattern, there will definitely be some test bras and fittings required. There’s only so much you can do with a bra pattern if you’re planning to make serious modifications.