I woke up this morning and realized that I didn’t have any good stories or cool pictures of my week for Saturday Life. It was a solid week of just average work stuff, which is pretty cool, don’t get me wrong, but not quite as cool for blogging.
So I thought, instead of going on about my work week. I would talk to you about all the new materials and things in my shop, because I’ve had so many questions!!
And the main question I’ve been asked is “What is Bra Tulle?”
Bra tulle is a very fine tulle. It’s much softer than craft tulle, and doesn’t tear like craft tulle.
It does not have any real stretch, and only a slight ‘mechanical give’ on the fabric, making it a great option for larger sizes and cups that need extra support. It is at it’s best and most supportive when used as two layers with opposing grain or direction of stretch. (which gives it a neat honeycomb look!)
It is the same type of tulle that is used for the beautiful embroidered tulle laces and can be used for that extra rigid support under a tulle lace.
It has a wonderful sheer quality and lightness, that is more breathable and open than a heavy knit.
It is very commonly used in high-end Ready-To-Wear Lingerie.
Compared to 15 Denier:
15 Denier is a sheer knit fabric. It has a significant amount of ‘stretch’ in one direction, making for a much more relaxed fit in bras. 15 Denier is also a very soft fabric, but it can be prone to the occasional pull because it’s such a delicate knit. Some people who have very sensitive skin will line bra tulle with 15 denier.
I offer Bra Tulle by the yard, and in kits in The Emerald Studio Etsy in Black, White & Blush!
So there’s my little bit of information sharing for the day! Let me know if you have any other questions about the tulle! I’m so happy that I finally get to share all of my favourite bra-making supplies with you all! 🙂 🙂
You’ll get to see another bra with this fabric tomorrow, I can’t wait to show you! And it will be highlighting some of my new fold-over elastic bra findings kits too!
How was your week? Did you do anything fun? Any bra-making plans?
This week I have something extra special for you! I have a mastectomy bra!
When I was in Calgary collaborating with my friend Karin (of Mrs.Weaver’s Finest), we did a fitting on a lovely lady who had a double mastectomy. In the process of designing and constructing the bra (that you’ll see later in the post!) we had a wonderful talk about mastectomy bras, our ideas for them and their design, and how we could make them as beautiful as possible. 🙂 So to go along with the first mastectomy bra that you saw this week over on Karin’s blog, here is another bit of mastectomy inspiration!
I decided when I was making this bra, that I wanted to do a few things: I wanted to try this in a size that is larger than my size that I usually make, I wanted to try two different styles pockets for the prosthetic, and most importantly I wanted to make it beautiful! I’m happy to say that I achieved my goal!!
For these two style of pockets- you can see that on the left there is a pocket that is only contained within the cup, this will work on someone who has a fairly flat chest wall, and who is only looking to fill in the cup. On the right side there is a different pocket- this one goes all the way to the side seam which can be needed after some surgeries, where more tissue is removed under the arm. Both of these can have prosthetics made that fit perfectly into the bra and fill in all the spaces that need to be filled.
I made this one with one of each type of pocket because it is a sample to inspire all the beautiful women who come into my shop 🙂 I am so in love with the light peach foam, covered in black lace 🙂 So classy, so elegant 🙂
Although this bra isn’t even close to my size (wow would I look curvy with these girls!), I pinned it on, just to show off what it looks like on a form 🙂 I have to say- I really want to make this bra for myself! I love it- it’s one of my favourites I’ve ever made!!
I still have to make the prosthetic to put in this bra- a post on that to come! I’m just so happy with how this bra turned out! Breast cancer is a cause very close to my heart, and I’m so happy to be able to make beautiful things to help women feel like themselves again. 🙂
And speaking of beautiful mastectomy bras….
Isn’t it gorgeous! This one is a soft-cup bra, made with ivory duoplex covered in a light peach lace 🙂
This one is for a lovely lady with a double mastectomy, with two of the cup-only mastectomy pockets in modal 🙂 super soft! I’m so happy we’re both showing off beautiful mastectomy wear!! 🙂 There is NO reason that women should have to compromise beauty in mastectomy wear!
Make sure to head over to read Karin’s post for more on this beauty!
And now we have some stunning submissions!
This first submission is from Jodi!
Jodi made this bra by cloning a pattern off one of fav RTW patterns- she used this beautiful lace lined with silk organza – how stunning is this!
She made this panties using the Orange Lingerie pattern to match- what a gorgeous set! This is her second bra using her cloned pattern (a few more tweaks!) her first was in Week 14 🙂 Love it!
Next we have a very pretty bra from Jennifer of JensWare!
Jennifer made this bra using the Shelley pattern from Pin-Up Girls, blue bird blue duoplex, flowers & hearts lace and white findings! How pretty is that!
Can I be the first to say that this reminds me of my favourite disney princess- Cinderella <3 in the best way possible! So gorgeous!
Thanks again for all the beautiful submissions this week! You never fail to inspire me!
Don’t forget to check out the Pinterest board and if you’re on Instagram and posting your lovely makes- don’t forget to add in #braaweek!!
You can go here to grab a challenge button and don’t forget to send your bra for next week to firstname.lastname@example.org by Friday for the next Sunday post!
I’m so happy to finally be posting a mastectomy bra- I don’t know what took me so long! I hope that this post was inspiring for you, or for a loved one 🙂 I feel like we’ve all been touched by breast caner in our lives 🙂
Hope you’re all having a fantastic week!
Here we are at the final week of Corset October! Can you believe it’s already here! And here is my final corset!
And look at that extra lucky pattern matching- that was 100% unintentional- so massive win on this one!
This is made with the beautiful Harlot Suspender corset pattern from Scarlett
! Sorry for the low lighting and lack of thigh highs to go with the garter straps- the photos were a little last minute in this crazy week, and I wasn’t quite up to showing off my pale pale thighs in this corset!
I cut this corset out at the same time that I cut out the Angel Underbust from last week, so I didn’t know that the patterns tend to run a little on the lager size, so this pattern is also a little roomy on me, but it does make for a very comfortable wearing corset! And I love the shape of the top of this corset- perfect for making a matching bra!
I really love the way that this corset turned out, and the fabric- which looks so rich and beautiful! It’s amazing how much your fabric can influence the look and feel of your corset! I’m so happy I have some of this left over, I’ll definitely be making another corset with it!
I also like how high this corset comes in the back, it’s super flattering and you don’t have to worry about any spilling over the top when you’re lacing it tight!
I did have to watch my garter straps around Karin’s lovely puppy Inkblot – he thought they were a lovely little dangly piece for him to play with! Here I am hiding them from him! What a sweetheart!
Overall I am so happy with this corsetI can’t wait to put together a beautiful outfit for it!
And don’t forget Scarlett is offering a deal too all of my lovely readers!
And now on to all of your beautiful makes this week!
Karin made her ‘Gentleman Skull Corset’ for her lovely step-daughter to wear this Halloween! How cool is that!! <3 <3
She made it using this piece of fabric and some strategic pattern placement, with both of the full sized skeletons being placed on the back panels. Halloween being my favourite holiday you can imagine how in love I am with this corset! Make sure you head over to Karin’s blog to read all about it!
Next we have a super sparkly corset from Rachel of Ivy Rose Designs
Remember Rachel’s beautiful bra from last week? Well here is her gorgeous corset to match! And what a lovely set in that sparkly galaxy fabric!
This is a self-drafted pattern, with a solid panel centre front, no busk, and a nice peak in the centre following perfectly with the matching bra! What a lovely silhouette, that will definitely make for a stunning outfit on a fun night out!
Next we have another gorgeous submission from Sian of Rebel Angel
This is Sian’s first corset, and she used a kit and pattern from Sew Curvy in the beautiful underbust style!
She used a single layer of coutil- and wow- look at the waist-training power of this corset- really gorgeous shape! And an excellent first corset too! Make sure to head over to Sian’s blog to read her post all about the making of this beauty!
Next we have a beautiful bra submission from our favourite french man Joël!!
Joël has taken a luxurious summer off biking in the country with his wife in the sunshine 🙂 But now it’s back behind the sewing machine creating beautiful things 🙂
This is a two colour bra made with satin crèpe and a gorgeous lace! Don’t you love the detailing on the straps too! I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again- your wife is a very lucky woman!
And last but not least we have another halloween inspired corset from Maddy of Miss Maddy Sews!
Maddy made this bra using the plunge corset pattern from Scarlett in her Corset Making Express Course, and some heavy weight black cotton lining, with a shinier black fashion exterior.
An then she added the fun bit! She combined her passion of medicine (from her studies) with her sewing passion and added appliqué ribs to her corset! How cool is that! Make sure you head over to Maddy’s blog to read all about her super awesome corset make, and to wish her luck on her upcoming exams!!
What a fantastic finale for Corset October- I really couldn’t have wished for a better corset turn out! You have all made such stunning things! And I’m happy to see that I’m not the only one who was bitten with the corset bug! These four definitely won’t be my last!
Don’t forget to check out the Pinterest board and if you’re on Instagram and posting your lovely makes- don’t forget to add in #braaweek or #corsetoctober !!
You can go here to grab a challenge button and don’t forget to send your bra for next week to email@example.com by Friday for the next Sunday post!!
I’ve got a pretty crazy week ahead of me with the fabulous Mrs.Weaver here in Calgary! If you would like to follow all of our happenings this week make sure to follow us on instagram! @mrsweaversfinest & @theemeraldstudio and you can also follow our hashtag #emeraldweaverproject!
Hope you’re all having an amazing weekend – and that you’re all getting ready for Halloween coming up next weekend!
This week is the last week of bra theory before Corset October. And I have a really good one for you! All about lift!
Now as a 24 year old with no children, and medium cup size- I don’t really have enough of a lift issue to show this very well- so my mom very kindly offered to model this bra for me 🙂 in exchange for a custom bra of course- in her favourite kit- chartreuse, with white findings, with the more vertical ‘Bliss’ wires. (I’ve decided to call these wires ‘Bliss Wires’- for obvious reasons 🙂 )
Now this is one of those tester bras with two different cups – one side lifts and one side doesn’t (and I promise that I replaced the non-lifting cup for mom after I was finished with the lift experiment!)
Before I jump into this bra- first I’m going to talk a little bit about lift- and I think this is where people start to get confused and terminology starts to get mixed.
Lift is the upwards force that is pulling the breast up from the strap and is controlled by the upper cup. This is not to be confused with ‘push up’ or ‘push in’ forces that come from slings and powerbars on the underside our outer edge of the cup.
Lift is controlled by the upper cup- and if your upper cup is too long from apex to neckline/strap- then your bra is going to be letting you down- literally.
So to show this- I took moms custom pattern, and I added a bad alteration to one of the cups- The blue is the original seamline, and in pink you can see the additional curve and vertical length that I added to the upper cup in the cross-cup seam.
And this is the effect:
You can see that the right side (right side of the photo) is lifted and rounded, no wrinkles in the cup, breast sitting entirely above the wireline, apex pointing ahead.
But on the left side- there are wrinkles, the breast is drooping below the wire, and even the apex looks off centre now.
The effect is even more dramatic when you see it from the side view:
This side is a nice lifted, but round and casual fit for under T-shirts.
And this side is is looking quite let down.
You can even see through a T-shirt how much more lifted the right side is!
Isn’t it amazing how a little alteration like that can make such a huge difference to the fit!
A good way to test your bra to see if it needs this alteration is to take a big horizontal pinch from your upper cup and see if that makes things more lifted for you!
Thank you again so much to mom for being such a good sport! And for breast-feeding me for those 9 months! I already have your bra cup replaced with a lifted one- ready for you to wear! 🙂
What are you opinions on lift? Is that something that you struggle with in your bra fit?
Now on to your lovely submissions!
First we have this super fun bra from Amber!
If you can believe it this beauty is actually a nursing bra! Who says nursing bras can’t be beautiful!
Amber made this from a Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern- modified for a horizontal seam with split lower cup and powerbar! And modified for nursing clips!
Amber made this bra with white duoplex, and stamped these little bees on with stamps and fabric markers! HOW CUTE ARE THEY! I want a bee bra! She also used fold-over elastic and a little folded ribbon for the front! Love it! Thanks Amber!
Next we have this gorgeous lacy number from Karin of Mrs. Weaver’s Finest!
Karin made a strapless bra! which is always quite the feat in bra-making- especially with larger cup sizes!
And oh my is it pretty- such a delicate feel- and that little bow 🙂
She also added little loops for G-hook detachable straps- just in case she wanted them- love it!
Make sure you go over to Karin’s blog to check out her post on this beauty, and all the info that she gave with it- more Bra Theory 🙂
Next we have pretty lace bra from David of Bonnet Bleu
David made this bra with underwires and two types of lace- non stretch embroidered lace for the cups and stretch lace for the back band. Love those lace cups, and a perfect job on mirroring the lace! So pretty!
David is a freelance lingerie designer, label: Bonnet BlueFacebook Page
dpolrolniczak (at) wp (dot) pl
Next we have a very luxurious set from Maddy of Miss Maddy Sews!
This is Maddy’s Burlesque set! She made it using stretch velvet (found in the remnants bin *all hail the remnants queen!*) and stretch lace. What a gorgeous effect- there is just something about velvet- and this colour is gorgeous!
And of course she didn’t just stop there but she made the whole set, panties, garter belt and all! Wow- I must say that I’ve been feeling a bit of lingerie envy – I definitely need to get making some full sets! I bet you feel like a million buck in this Maddy!
Make sure that you head on over and check out her post on this delightful set!
Next we have a very fashionable bra from Sofia of Silver Lining Atelier!
This is Sofia’s second Maya pattern bra- and tweaked with perfect fitting alterations! And this time Sofia was really resourceful with her fabric and made it from her boyfriend’s shirt sleeves! Love it! She even used the cuff buttons for the front embellishment!
I’m really loving this look for fall- I think you could wear this under a sheer shirt or a mostly buttoned up blazer! very tailored/menswear feel! Fantastic!
Make sure you head on over to Sofia’s blog to see her lovely post about it!
Next we have two beautiful makes from new contributor Anna of AnnaSkapar!
Anna made this beautiful bra using the Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern with modified seams. She used a lovely turquoise fabric with foam underneath! Loving that lace trim along the top!
She also made this gorgeous bikini top for her trip to Mallorca! She said it was the only top that didn’t have to worry about falling off when she jumped in the water! She made this using the Pin-Up Girls Three Sisters Bikini, the Rebecca version, with some modifications. Love this print! So tropical!
And last but not least we have these two lovelies from Diana of Diana Lingerie Design
These are both from Diana’s new pattern that she is testing, and she made these for her sister- What a great sister!
Wow these look so pretty and professional- and I’m loving the shape on that vertical seam! Great!
Make sure to check out Diana’s post about these two over on her blog!
Again I am so in awe of the beautiful submissions this week- you guys are amazing! 🙂
Don’t forget to check out the Pinterest board
, and the Flickr Group
if you enjoy those platforms! To grab a challenge button
and to send your bra for next week to firstname.lastname@example.org by Friday for the next Sunday post
I can’t believe that September is already coming to an end- and with it the first month of Bra-Theory. If you didn’t get a chance to read them all I also covered:
If you’re sad about Bra-Theory ending, I wouldn’t worry too much, I have a feeling that it will be back in November with more special posts 🙂
Also I hope you’re just as excited as I am for Corset October!! Of course you can continue to submit all types of lovely intimate apparel to the challenge- but you are also welcome to join me in my corset-making quest! I’ll be doing a post this week about patterns, fabrics and inspiration that I’m using for my corsets this month!
Hope you’re all having a wonderful Sunday!
Today I have more bra theory for you all and another bra to demonstrate!
*sorry for the late post- usually I like to get these up before noon- but this is quite the big post and I had some last minute urgent shop errands to run!!*
And finally a Bra-Theory bra that is symmetrical!!
So as was suggested in the comments last week I thought I would demonstrate changing your regular or long-wired bra into a plunge bra! – Lowering the wire for a shorter wire front and bringing the bridge and the cups down! Great for plunging tops!
So now I’m going to show you how I went from this pattern:
(my red old faithful)
To this pattern:
(my daring raspberry plunge!)
* now I want to make a comment on this right away about the bridge width- since I’m sure I’ll get a comment that it looks really wide- but this is how wide my bridge is naturally at this low point on the bra- and it is the same width on my red bra with longer wires at that point in the bra. Generally when I make a plunge bra I artificially narrow the bridge to give more of a ‘cleavage’ effect. But I wanted to show what a plunge bra without that modification looked like for this Bra Theory. Plus this type of bra does have it’s place for wider plunging necklines!*
Here we go!!
First you want to mark on your pattern pieces your wireline- because this is what you are modifying! I’ve highlighted it in pink! Now I should mention here that my pattern pieces have NO seam allowances- and I highly recommend taking away all seam and elastic allowances so you don’t have to worry about them- then add them back after you make your new seam lines.
Then you’re going to look at your wires- how long are the ones in your original pattern? How short are the ones for your new plunge look? Generally underwires should come up to the same height under the arm (since you don’t want to lose support there), and they are shorter in the front- where you want the exposure!
So in my red bra I used an Extra Long wire, and for my new plunge bra- I’m using a short- you can see that in their correct orientation, they are the same height under the arm, but one is much shorter in the front!
Then you have to measure the actual difference in length between the wires. This one is 2 and 3/16ths of an inch shorter than my extra long wire and my pattern.
Then you go back to your pattern and mark down your wireline in the front the difference between your wires on your centre front of the cup.
Now you might run into the problem that I did- your cross cup seam is in the middle of the amount you have to mark down.
So then what you have to do is join your upper and lower cup along the seamlines (overlapping your curves), to connect your wireline. Then you can mark down for your new shorter wire.
Once you’ve measured the point where your new wire ends. Then you connect your strap point to your new wire-end – and voila! You have your new neckline!
So you can definitely leave the draft here- just cut off the new neckline and get back to stitching- but you also might like to re-arrange some of your seams to work better with your new shape. For example- in this new neckline- my horizontal seam would end at an awkward point on my neckline (awkward point circled and highlighted in blue)
Now you can decide how much you want to change your seamlines – vertical seams are quite popular in plunge bras, but for the sake of an exercise I’ll keep the seams similar- just bringing my cross cup down a little so it’s back in the wireline and not ending in my neckline.
These are my new seamlines highlighted in blue! All you have to do is cut your new pieces apart along the seamlines and add your curves back into your bottom cup pieces!
These seamlines should give me similar lines to the cups in this bra: (although I had my cross-cup seam ending a little lower in the wireline)
Now that you have your seamlines in your cup- now we can move onto the frame! So you’re going to mark down on the centre front of your frame the difference between your wires.
Then- as simple as that- you cut your bridge off at that point, making sure that your line is perfectly perpendicular to your centre front.
*Now this is the point where you might think ‘wow my bridge looks wide’ and that is because your short wires are ending at a point where your breasts have started to splay and where they’re further apart from each other. NOW- that doesn’t mean that you have to stick with your natural shape and width at that point. I quite often narrow my bridge to bring the cups closer together and give a more “pulled-in/ cleavage look” like in this ivory bra:
But you can choose the look that you’re interested in- what you like better. I think that there is a place for both type of bras in a bra wardrobe, but I have to say that personally I like my cups nipped in a little at the bridge to reign the girls in a little closer!
Then when you’ve decided how close you want to pull your bridge in (minimum two channel widths) then add seam and elastic allowances back to your pieces and sew it up!
And there you have your most basically modified plunge bra.
You can see in the overlap it’s essentially just cut the chunk out of the middle.
But I hope you can see from this tutorial the limitless ways you can modify this bra to pull you in, or give you more room for a wide plunging neckline- but still work with the same pattern where you can limit your fitting issues!
Let me know what you thought of this Bra-Theory tutorial! Questions? Comments? Suggestions for next week?
And now on to your lovely submissions!
Diana made this set using her new pattern- soon to be released! It is her Triangelbra! How gorgeous is this! Made with spandex and stretch mesh and push-up wires!
I really love this asymmetrical look for the panties too! I think there are so many possibilities for colour blocking and lace-inserts. Congrats on the pattern Diana- looks fabulous! 🙂 Check out her post on this set over on her blog!
Next we have this very pretty set from Emma of A HandStitched Life!
Emma made this set using the Marlborough bra pattern from Orange Lingerie and the Alice Knickers from Ohhh Lulu! She used this lovely printed polyester and embroidered lace. Such a nice colour combo!
This is Emma’s first underwired bra! YAY! And the fit is okay- which is a great starting point! 🙂 I’m so excited to see more!! Don’t forget to check out Emma’s post over on her blog!
Next we have this super cute set from Christie!
Christie made this bra by covering foam cups with this adorable polka-dot fabric- which is set off perfectly by the red trim on the top- what a great retro vibe! Gorgeous! She says there’s some gaping in the top- but it’s so close!! 🙂
Next we have this lovely bra from Sofia of Silver Lining Atelier!
Sofia made this bra using the soon-to-be-released Maya pattern from AFI. As a pattern tester Sofia had early access to the pattern and made up this beauty!
Sofia did an amazing review over on her blog where she talks about how well the sizing worked out and the great round shape. And I can agree with you there- that is a lovely round shape! Perfect for under thin knit shirts! Love it! Don’t forget to check out Sofia’s post about this bra over on her blog!
Next we have some gorgeous lingerie from Maddy of Miss Maddy Sews!
Maddy focused on the other lingerie additions this week and wow- I’m feeling some real lingerie drawer envy! Maddy made this cute garter belt and Grace Panties to go with her coral set from the past week!
What fantastic additions! Doesn’t it all just look so beautiful as a set?! It really makes me realize I need to step up my panty game! Wow- love it! Don’t forget to head over to Maddy’s blog for her lovely post!
Next we have very pretty bikini top from David of Bonnet Bleu!
David made this bra using foam cups and strap elastic. This is his sixth strappy bra! He’s definitely getting the hang of it! I love the back of this one too! Definitely a highlight you could show under a sheer dress!
David is a freelance lingerie designer, label: Bonnet Blue
dpolrolniczak (at) wp (dot) pl
Absolutely amazing submissions this week- you guys continue to blow me away and inspire me to do more!
Don’t forget to check out the Pinterest board
, and the Flickr Group
if you enjoy those platforms! To grab a challenge button
and to send your bra for next week to email@example.com by Friday for the next Sunday post
What did you think of plunge bras? Think you’ll try making one? Any suggestions for next week before I dive into the wonderful world of corsets?
Let me know & hope you’ve had a wonderful weekend 🙂